Need some help improving times

[ArkansasMystic]

After the track day, I'm really starting to enjoy running at the track. I ran six times, best run was number 5.
60ft: 2.22
330ft: 5.93
1/8: 9.00
1/8 mph: 81.27
1000ft: 11.42
1000ft mph: 93.85
I started at 11.9, improved every time except the last run where I was trying to shift out at a higher RPM to see if it would help my times. My 60ft improved every run, but still the best was a 2.1? so I know I can lower my e/t by improving takeoff. I was launching at 2k RPMs, any more resulted in loosing traction. I'm hoping to get down in the 10's, don't care where.
What can I add to give me the .5 second I need? I'm running 245/45 Nitto 555's, I know I can go with a wider tire and it would help. This is my daily driver, so I want to keep it road friendly. I want drag radials, but even Nittos would wear out way too quick. An extra set of wheels/tires is really out of the question, don't run enough to keep swapping tires out. I'd do power mods, but I think traction is a big issue at the moment. It will be next summer probably before I run, so I'll have time to work on this. I'm thinking some LCA's and wider rear tires would help me hook (probably a 275). I currently have 3.73's, and they do great for all of my needs. I was thinking that stepping up to 4.10's may do the trick, but right now I cross the trap in 3rd @ 6500 RPM, so I'm afraid I'll have to hit 4th right at the end of the track. I was thinking about a CAI that would put the filter in the fender, but not sure that it would give me any gains over my current setup. What do you guys think? Thanks for any input.

[06MUSTANGGT24V]

honestly you should get a aluminum driveshaft then vht your tires before you run down the track

[stumbaugh]

with you finishing at 93mph, u should be in the 10's right now. So the power is there. I would focus on suspension, i put eibach drag springs on my car and i love em. If i was you, i would put strange 10 way adjustable shocks/stuts front and rear, upper and lower control arms, and throw some drag springs on it. The springs are very streetable so that's no worries, and the shocks and struts are adjustable, so when u get to the track, stiffen the rears and loosen the fronts. i PROMISE you that will put u into the 10's.

[1low03gt]

Sticky tires number 1!!
Then for no cost to you,lose the front sway bar for weight transfer,and weight loss.
No need for a CAI,not worth it really,a drop in K&N works just as fine.The metal tube of the CAI traps heat,so it defeats the purpose of it's title.The only way a CAI will help you out is if you got a JLT,or K&N's kit as they are non metal in construction.
Rear control arms will help,providing you run a sticky tire.Got to remember that they are used for the drag race guys,and autocross guys,so they stiffen up the chassis aswell as they are tubular,or boxed with poly pushings.
Drag struts or adjustable struts will definitely help,as they help with the weight transfer.
A short through shifter if you already don't have one.Helps with more accurate,and quicker shifting.
Then the best mod,practice,learn what your stang likes for launching,and what RPM's it likes to be shifted at.Every stang is not the same. ;)

[ArkansasMystic]

I guess my problem is in tires. I'm looking at adding LCA's, then mid next year it should be time for new tires. I can't decide on tires. I'm gonna try my Nitto 555's out this winter, see how they work. I really don't want two sets of rims and tires, but it's also impossible to get the best of both worlds. If my Nittos work well enough, I'll be keeping a 245 or maybe a 255 up front and going with a 285/40 rear which should help traction some. If not, I'll be going with something like a BFG G-force all season. My Nittos get really sticky once you roast them. After a pass, they seem almost like the Nitto drags, pick up rocks and such really bad. I noticed that driving back to where we were parked, they were sticky. I was really wanting subframe connectors. Would they help at the track at all? Would using track bite with street tires help any (or possibly hurt)? Thanks.

[stumbaugh]

I think subframe connectors help out, they stiffen up the chassis. Anything you can buy that stiffens the chassis will help: strut tower brace, subframe connectors, upper and lower control arms. taking the sway bar off is also a good idea, just be sure and dont try and take any corners to fast, its a big diffrence in cornering. Either way, if u want the best time's possible, u really need to buy some drag radials. get some summit racing, buy you some of those cheap drag lite or pro star look alike wheels for $100 a piece, and then get you some mickey thompson or nitto drag radials. you wont have a traction problem then. and by the way, if u ever get the urge to sell that mystic...you just let me know.

[ArkansasMystic]

LOL, about sold it a few weeks ago, but decided I just couldn't part with it. Could have made money off of it, even after adding in the money I spent on mods (including some paintwork which isn't cheap). I know I should be able to cut a 2.0 60ft on street tires. I was launching at 2k rpms, pretty much dumping the clutch. Once I learn how to slip it I can launch higher. Next time I need tires I'll have either a 275 or 285 for the rear. I hope one day (probably after I graduate college) to get a decent dd and leave the Cobra for a weekend warrior. I'll then be able to get some DR's. Right now, I'm driving about 15k miles a year. I'd be replacing Nitto DR's once a year, just too much money for no more than I run. All I get is a bunch of beat up imports trying to run me, I can handle those as is. I've gotta quit modding and start saving so I can garage it later, but it is addicting. It's about over for the year, so I'll have plenty of time to save and decide where to spend it. I want subframes for sure, just can't find anyone to install them. I want long tubes, but not sure that I can get those (hear they hang pretty low, I already drag pretty bad in places, namely my driveway). A tune might not hurt me though, just something to add to the list if you guys think it might help. After talking with you, I see that I've got the power, and any more is a waste. As we saw, some of the most powerful cars at the track day were the slowest due to traction. I've gotta weigh my options, due what makes sense, so until I can get some tires that will hook up, I'll focus on hitting helmet range (11.25). That sounds doable with improved 60ft times, improved shifting (granted I did much better, but after 3 days at the track I know I'm far from perfect). Would LCA's help any when I'm sticking with a street tire (Nitto 555 or BFG G-Force A/S)? I'm waiting on my videos so I can see how I did, don't really know yet. Appreciate the input.

[stumbaugh]

I think the lower control arms are going to help no matter what. I dont blame you for not wanting to buy some Drag Radials. But here is a thought, i have some 315/35/17 nitto 555r here at my house. They proboly only have about 5 or 6 passes left, if you want to run your car one more time this year we can throw them on your car and see how it does. They are mounted on some rims already so we should be good to go. I cut a 1.89 60ft with stock suspension with them, i dumped the clutch at 4k, it spun about 3 foot then grabbed. So just let me know. A friend of mine had a 98 cobra, he put a fidanza billet aluminum flywheel, 4.10's, off road X pipe, and SLP loudmouth exhaust and got a 10.50 on drag radials, and a 10.80 on street tires (it dead hooked somehow on street tires one time). I think long tubes would be a good mod, i had some BBK longtubes on my old 96 cobra convertible and they didnt cause any ground clearance problems. Underdrive pulleys is also a good mod. every forumn ive ever looked on said to run a 4.30 gear in a cobra since they are more high revving than a 2 valve motor. I had them in my old cobra, best mod ive ever purchased. and it really didnt affect interstat driving that much.

[ArkansasMystic]

I already have underdrive pullies. I've already taken off several Saturday's in the past month, not sure that I'll be able to get off another one this month. I could go, but I wouldn't get there until 4. Thanks for the offer, I'd LOVE to take you up on that. First mod I will do is subframes (hoping I can find a shop to install them). Second is new tires/wheels (17x9 Chrome 03 Cobras). Third will be LCA's. I'm hoping that sales will pick up as we near Christmas (I work in sales, so my pay goes up) and I'll be able to get all this done before next track season.

[stumbaugh]

hey u need to enable ur private messaging. I need to tell u something. Be sure and get the weld in subframe connectors. they seem to fit alot better.

[ArkansasMystic]

Messaging fixed, somehow they got disabled. I'm looking at MM full length weld ins powedercoated black.

[Blackout_03]

Tires are the Number one thing you can do to better your time. I run the 555R's on the street...work great and get @ 15K miles from them. but I run BFG DR's at the track. I would also suggest a JLT CAI and a SCT or Diablo tunner...that also will help in the power dept.

[AzianStang]

Tires are #1 thing I need to shoot myself into the 9's.

Did you check your rear tire pressure? I'm also running street tire Nitto's and mine were over 35 psi before I started running Saturday. I dropped about 10 psi in each tire to lessen the traction loss. Seemed to help quite a bit. Now if we had some DR's, you could run 10-20 psi and roast the sh*t out of 'em. Since I had street tires, I didn't roast 'em so they'd get too sticky, I just peeled out real quick to dust off all the crap.

At least you don't have to worry about an independent rear...

[ArkansasMystic]

I'm hoping to make the meet on the 22nd to get a few more passes in. I was constantly improving, so maybe with some more seat time I'll get where I want to be. Now that I know of a place that will install subframes, they probably will be first. I'd like LCA's, not sure if I'll do those or tires first, just depends on the condition of my tires when I get the funds. I really need some more passes in before I start modding like crazy. I guess the best question is, with the current setup what times SHOULD I be able to get? Even on street tires, a goal wouldn't hurt. Thanks.

[ArkansasMystic]

Just read that last post. My Nittos were at 28 psi. I did a decent burnout, could tell they got sticky (atleast somewhat, nothing like a DR). Next trip I'm gonna try to raise my launch to 2500-3000 and slip the clutch (something I've never been able to do).

[Blackout_03]

I think your times are pretty dead on for mods and driver skill at this time. i would take the tires down to @ 15psi...try a good 2nd gear burn out and leave the line @ 3K with some clutch slip. I ahve some Track Bite/VHT that I will be bringing with me...you ar more than welcome to use it!

Also what are your shift points?....I found that shifting @6k netted the best times for my car. It dosent make any power above there and it keeps it in the power band longer on shifts.

[ArkansasMystic]

The car use to be my brother's, his best was 11.4, so I'm happy where I'm at. However, with a 2.2 60ft, I know I could drop a tenth or two. I've never used VHT, didn't know how well it would work with the street tires. I've ran the car 3 different times at the track, so experience is a big thing right now. I'm shifting out at redline (6800 rpm's I think). First two times I ran (not first times of that day, but the first days I ran) I shift out at 6000-6500 rpm. Here is my dyno, don't mean much to me, but maybe you guys can give me some input based on it.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/beatty_preston/My%2096%20Mystic%20Cobra/IMG_1072.jpg
Also, here is a video from one of my previous runs (shifting 6500 rpm). Don't have any from last weekend, although someone else may.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/beatty_preston/My%2096%20Mystic%20Cobra/th_MySecondRun.jpg (http://s31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/beatty_preston/My%2096%20Mystic%20Cobra/?action=view&current=MySecondRun.flv)

[06MUSTANGGT24V]

hey torched do you mind if i borrow some of that vht i was wanting to break into the 10s

[Blackout_03]

Yeah your Peak HP is right at 6K...after that it starts to fall off. I would shift right at 6K or as close to it. They say for every tenth you cut off your 60 it worth .2 on the big end. My best so far is a 1.7 60ft 10.3@102 at C-ville. i just have a few more mods than you have. Tires have been the best investment for me. My car should dyno @300hp/320TQ

[ArkansasMystic]

I've heard the 1:2 thing, just wasn't sure how accurate it was on the 1000ft track. I thought I should be shifting at 6k, just know that my best times were when I shifted at 6800. I'll try making a pass shifting lower, we'll see how it goes.

[Blackout_03]

After watching your vid....quicker shifting would help....I lift shift the 1-2 then no lift the rest.

[Blackout_03]

No prob 06...just come and say hi.

[06MUSTANGGT24V]

hey mystic when you shift at 6k what does it drop down too and then at 6.8k what does it drop to

[Blackout_03]

http://mustangvideo.vidiac.com/video/ab ... 5c2c78.htm (http://mustangvideo.vidiac.com/video/ab92816e-c96e-4051-9eef-9ae0015c2c78.htm)


Here is the only vid I can find of my car. The First race was the perfect launch and shifting.

[ArkansasMystic]

Yea, that vid was from the first time I ran. My 60ft times are about the same, yet I'm 4mph faster and 5 tenths quicker, so I've improved shifting a good bit. I'm not sure what it drops to, that is something I had thought about. Maybe shifting at 6k it is dropping down below the powerband, whereas at 6800 is drops right into the powerband. Just a thought, we'll see if I get to make it the 22nd.

[stumbaugh]

every dynoshop ive talked to has always said shift 500 rpm over your peak horsepower rpm. So in my opinion shifting at 6500 would be about right.

[ArkansasMystic]

My brother had the car dyno'd back when he owned it (the sheet shown, I haven't added any performance mods), and I'm not sure what type of dyno was used. From what I can tell, some are different than others, so that may have an effect? Either way, it'll just be a trial/error. All I know is that shifting at 6800 allowed me to improve runs every time except when I went out to 7000 rpm (even with a better 60ft), so I know that 6800 is the highest I need to shift. It'll only take a few passes to see if lower rpm's work better. I know I shifted lower on previous runs, but I was new to the car (well, really still am). I've got my fingers crossed that I can get off the 22nd and make a few more passes. As said, my times are good for mods and driver level, but do you guys think the car is capable of low 11's (thinking to break the helmet line, 11.25)? I think before I start dumping money in more mods (tires, LCA's, etc) I need to become consistent. My times were improving each run, so if I can bottom out I can go from there. I'm still waiting, I think watching the videos of my runs will help some, maybe we can see where I can improve. Thanks for the input, I really appreciate all of the help you guys are offering, really sets this off compared to other forums.

[stumbaugh]

Keep shifting where u are shifting at right now, slip that clutch out about 3k, you will get those 60's in the 1.90's u will break the helmet line. I had the same goal as you man. Also, you might want to try improving that shifting speed, shift it like your trying to rip the shifter out, i powershift mine into 3rd and 4th (never let out of the gas when i shift) either way man, we will get you into the 11.2's. But i will say this, for your driving experience in racing, i would say you are doing pretty good. so keep your head up

[ArkansasMystic]

My brother had the car for 3 years. To my knowledge, 11.4 is the best he ran at that track (and similar on other 1/4 mile tracks). I'm very pleased with my times, but that 2.2 60ft gets me. I know I'm shifting quicker because my times are quicker, and 60ft. is the same. However, when running it felt like I was granny shifting, which is why I'm interested in seeing the videos.

[ArkansasMystic]

I've done some searching on other sites and have came up with some more questions for you guys. I've looked at others time slips, and I've seen people run high 10's in the 1000ft @ 93ish mph. I'm trapping at 93.85, so is there any reason I shouldn't be down there assuming I can launch good and shift quickly? Also, people really like LCA's, but I keep being told it would be a waste when I'm still on street tires (and as I have mentioned, I will not be running drag radials), so would they be a waste as well? I've looked into a tune, but have been discouraged because people seem to think it isn't needed with my mods. I'm hoping my Nittos work well enough this winter, if so I'll be getting 17x10.5 03 Cobras with 315/35/17 Nitto 555's around tax time (if not I'll get 17x9 and run 275/40/17 all seasons of some sort). What do you guys think? Thanks for your input, it is greatly appreciated.

[Blackout_03]

traction plays a big part on trap speed. With good traction you will have a lower trap.

[stumbaugh]

Just worry about suspension, put upper/lower control arms, subframe connectors, strut tower brace, and drag springs. Do a big smokey burnout and get those nitto's you have now, get them really hot and just slip on the clutch just enough to get it moving about 5 feet out there then release it all the way. but on street tires, it's going to do you no good just revving it up and dumping the clutch, it's either gonna bog down or spin, it's not going to hook like that on street tires unless you go coil over's front and rear with a tubular K member and all that stuff. So just work on suspension stuff, with 60 ft. times in the 2.20's, it's all about driver skill. You get that 60ft. down to a low 1.90 to a high 1.80 and then u can start worrying about performance. You can have 1000hp, but it doesnt do u any good if it can't be put to the ground. Im not trying to sound like a no it all or put u down in anyway, but that's just the plain and simple facts.

[ArkansasMystic]

I've only had the car since May, been into trucks before. I've ran at the track three times in my life, so I'm not expecting miracles or anything, just trying to find out where I should be with the current setup. I'm pretty set on subframes as my first mod, then it may be time for new tires (still debating wheels, the $600 I'd spend on wheels would go a long way on the suspension). I've been told that since I'll still have street tires, LCA's would be a waste? I've gotta start saving some money, cause who knows what this economy is gonna do, so it'll be a slow project but I'll get there. Thanks for the input, looks like it's time to work on the suspension.

[Blackout_03]

the Maximum Motorsports and Steeda Full Length conn are the some of the best. I am going with the extra long ones from MM.

http://www.lethalperformance.com/pages- ... black.html (http://www.lethalperformance.com/pages-productinfo/product-5962/mmfl-3pc-maximum-motorsports-full-length-subframe-connectors-black.html)